t28&29 c25 May 13&14 Hoek van Holland 38k1479 Sawbridgeworth

Here's town centre twin level bike parking in Holland.

Took the overnight ferry from the Hoek to Harwich  - -  what an improvement from 30yrs ago !
On a cold blustery morning cycled 20miles W, and in Colchester, met up with Mollie to get a lift home.
End of trip.
Highlights will be posted.

t27 c24 May 12 Rotterdam 33k1440 Hoek van Holland

Short ride to the ferry town, but into very strong headwinds.
Thought I should take a pic of one of these before I left.

Cycled the last 10k along the sea dike, on the bank of the Rijn, the northern edge of the Rijn delta.

Only 7k to go in Holland, and then another 2k to England.

t26 c23 May 11 Utrecht 77k1408 Rotterdam

Made several navigation errors which added about 12k to the ride.
Started out against headwinds and drizzle then it got worse.    Ten minutes of hail was unusual.   Tried cycling along the sea dyke but the wind was too strong.    Very low average speed.

So, ignoring all that, here's my digest of the relationship between people and bikes in Holland.
I HAVE SEEN (A-G):
A) more than one person on a bike
- 2  obviously 1 on the saddle
       and 1 on the rear wheel either astride or side saddle especially if dressed formally
- 3  usually a mum and kids
      as 2 - plus 1 in a basket either over the front wheel, or between the cyclist and the handlebars
B) 1 or both speaking or txting or exercising their smartphone
C) carrying by one arm
- a ladder
- a magnificent bouquet
- an crocodile (artificial, I think)
D) carrying on one or both cyclists' backs
- musical instruments
   - guitar in a case
   - trombone in a case
   - drumming equipment all over the bike
   - haven't seen a double base yet
- fishing gear
E) people cycling under umbrellas
    this I find amazing because it's usually with A)
F) with 1 or 2 dogs
     quite often on a leash or else in a  front or rear basket
G) one person cycling a bike plus steering another solo

So there's the way to relate to your bicycle.
Caution: not all combinations are safe.

t25 c22 May 10 Rhenen 45k1331 Utrecht

Just a short ride today to give me time to explore Utrecht,
the city where 300yrs ago the treaty was signed by Spain, France, Britain, Portugal, Savoy, and Holland,
to settle borders (for a while).
Most of the ride was through forrest.   In this part of the world bicycle travel is separated from road traffic.

Vehicles on the main road to the left, and cyclists on the two way road on the right.
Commuters cycle to their village station, then take the train into Utrecht.

Here's one of two cycle parking sites at a village 12k from Utrecht.

While in the city, toured the museum of virtually all the inventions of Dr Strabismus of Utrecht.

t24 c21 May 9 Kleve D 71k1287 Rhenen NL

Lazy start while the rain eased.
Back on the Rhein at Emmerich.
Weather improved enough to shed rain gear.
Crossed into Holland at 11:30.
The Rhine starts to split into its delta rivers here, the Waal and the Rijn.
Stayed with the Rijn/Rhein/Rhine.
Stopped at the first (and as it turns out, the only) hotel in Rhenen, and got the last single room.
(no pics today)

t23 c20 May 8 Krefeld 77k1193 Kleve

Headed approximately N, not following the river bends because I wanted to leave the industrial Ruhr by today.
Briefly visited the remains of the Roman frontier garrison town at Xanten.

Good weather for cycling except the last 7k in rain and headwinds.   Found in Kleve the last Kölsch pub before the Dutch border.

t22 c19 May 7 Koln 85k1116 Krefeld

Sunny smooth riverside cycle path 15k down the E bank into town.

Now I entered the very industrial Ruhr region, and  switched to the W bank to avoid Leverkusen.
The one major obstruction on the W bank is the Ford factory  - -  a familiar site for me.
A cyclist from Bayer guided me round its perimeter and back to the Rhein, a route I knew from my business visits there.   In fact we passed an office I had worked in during the 1980s.

Followed the winding Rhein N into greying skies and eventual rain.
Acieved the prime objective of ending N of Dusseldorf.

t21 c- May 6 Koln

Day off from cycling.    Had a day trip into Koln by tram, and visited some old haunts.

Fortunately it was too early in the day to over indulge.
Had a super patio dinner on a warm evening at K&B's.
My penance will come with next morning's cycling.

t20 c18 May 5 Andernach 70k1022 Koln

On route down the W bank, passed the ferry to Bad Honningen,

passed through the 1000k this trip,
and crossed by bridge to the E bank of the Rhein shortly after here.

I was welcomed to Koln by K.U., an ex Ford colleague, for a two night stay.

t19 c17 May 4 Loreley 65k952 Andernach

Morning view of a 115m barge avoiding the Loreley rocks

Approaching Koblenz

t18 c16 May 3 Mainz 64k887 Loreley

Escaped from Mainz industry after about 8k, then a short stretch of rough pathways, then great news.   Along the L bank, for the rest of the ride was on a smooth cycle way, close to the Rhein and mostly between the railway and road on the L, and the river on the R.

Entered the fairytale section of the Rhein valley
with the vines on the E side
and barely visible, a string of rocks to be avoided.
How's this for an island escape ?
Met a Brit, Alan, cycling S to Rome, at a roadside cafe.   We chatted over a late lunch of bratwurst.
Stopped for the night with a view of the Loreley, the 120m high rock in the narrowest part of the gorge.
From here the Rhein maidens lured their victims onto the rocks. 
Didn't spot any.

t17 c15 May 2 Worms 66k823 Mainz

Warm enough for the first day in shorts for a while.
Cycling up the left bank, I emerged from industry after about 10k, then continued on the Rhein embankment for most of the day.   Its surface was muddy, or rough chippings, or what finally caused the puncture: bricks with gaps.   Tried the almost parallel B9 road, but too dangerous: many trucks, no cycle lane.

River traffic becoming busy  - -  mostly Dutch barges (115m x 11.75m) punching upriver laden, or coasting down light,

plus a few tourist liners.

In Mainz I was directed to a decent altstadt hotel by a taxi driver.  
I relaxed with a beer in the sunshine and wafting blossom, by the Gutenberg museum

(Gutenberg bible:  1450s  first book printed by moveable type in the West.)

Later, observed the river bank evening strollers were heading in one direction, followed, and ended up at a wine festival.

t16 c14 May 1 Heidelberg 52k756 Worms

Set off on a misty morning.   Looking back across the Neckar at Heidelberg, could hardly make out the castle.

A good example of architecture en  route

Avoided Mannheim so added a few k to the journey, and rejoined the Rhein at Worms.

A barge working up river and a tourist liner (registered in Malta presumably to evade onerous tax or safety regulations,   Beware!)
Crossing the bridge into Worms, had a view of the cathedral through the arch of the toll gate.
So, finished up at the site of schooldays joke (in English), about the 1521 assembly which declared Martin Luther wrong and not to be followed.

t15 c- 30/04 Heidelberg

Explored Heidelberg aldstadt, the university, and the castle

Here's the view of the aldstadt, and bridge over the Neckar, from the castle gardens.
The drizzle turned to rain and curtailed activity.

t14 c13 29/04 Wörth am Rhein 77k704 Heidelberg

Late start (see prior blog).   Cycling as a hangover cure  - -  cool turkey.

I had planned to deviate from the Rhein to visit Heidelberg, one of the few guardians of European civilisation during the dark centuries.

So, continued on the plain through a not rich area with frequent small towns including a few gems
Either Rulzheim or Bellheim (can't remember)

and Speyer

After Speyer a local cyclist lead me for 15k along the quiet back lanes until 5k from the centre of Heidelberg.   Found a hotel on the verge of the Aldstadt.    Plan a non cycling day to explore H.

t13 c12 28/04 Kilstett F 60k627 Wörth am Rhein D

Yesterday's snow had melted, the headwind had eased, but it was still cold enough to warrant all layers including full leg protection.   Overcast, low cloud, almost no rain.
Continued following the Rhine across the Alsace plain on nearby French back roads.   The Rhine embankments are not paved here.
After 50k left France at one of its 6 corners, where the Rhine becomes a German river after being an international border for the prior 500k portion of this trip.

Later:
Fell in with three dutchmen from Maastricht who run a barge on the Rijn between Rotterdam and Basel.   Together we toasted Will's Alkmaar birthday.
(84hrs full power up, 48hrs steerage only power down)

t12 c11 27/04 Strasbourg 17k567 Kilstett

20degC drop in temp in 2 days.
Set off in rain, and soon into a headwind from the north.  
Saturday morning traffic was light so not much spray.
Stopped, added more layers.
Cycled on, not enjoying it, and finished about mid day at a welcoming hotel in a small village.
An hour later it was snowing.

tripday11 26/04 Strasbourg

Day off from cycling.
Explored the old centre of Strasbourg.
Attractive except for the tour groups.
Found some quieter places and relaxed.

day10 25/04 Breisach 93k550 Strasbourg

Crossed the Rhein from Breisach in D to Neuf Brisach in F, a new fortified town planned in 1697 by Vauban for Louis XIV to counter the Hapsburgs.

Then cycled N towards Strasbourg.    Longest day so far, beginning to feel a bit fitter.
Thought that anywhere near the centre would be too expensive and explored the E suburbs. Wasted  an hour, gave up and cycled towards the centre.   Got a series of advices by asking locals, and eventually came to an excellent budget hotel on the equivalent of the Paris left bank  - -  between the island and the university.    Just outside was this barge bar which opened 5 mins later:

Ate Lebanese tonight.    Strasbourg S bankers are definitely slimmer then Basel N bankers.    Swarming with cycles, at least 20% of which have baby pillion seats or trailers.

day9 24/04 Basel 63k457 Breisach

First half of a warm day spent cycling the E bank, firstly CH but mostly D.
The embankment was unsurfaced, either gravel or dirt.
After 30k took the bridge to the F side to cycle, within sight of the Rhein, on tarmac lanes, to help conserve the tyres and wheels.
Finally crossed back into D at Breisach.
For this stretch across the Alsace plain the mighty Rhein flows in two parts
- the barge navigable canal
- and the river, with power generating weirs about 40k apart
- and about 6k further W there's the 19thC Rhine/Rhone link canal

View from St Stephens Münster across the Alsace plain.

day8 23/04 Laufenberg 54k393 Basel

Climbed out of Laufenberg to enjoy a backward gance

then the crossing sequence was CH D CH Rhein CH
Along the way found some wetlands behind the Rhein embankment with many nesting swans and ducks

Arrived in Basel, chatted to some cyclists, and got advice to stay in Klein Basel, the N bank  - -  lower cost hotels, facing the evening sun, and with a view of the Aldstadt.

Just as I was finishing, I was forced into a high kerb by a fat Merc, this time incurring significant abrasions.   Nothing broken, all treatable from my medicine bag.

day7 22/04 Schaffhausen CH 72k339 Laufenburg CH&D

Cycled on a mix of roads ranging from deserted back roads and cycle ways, to heavily trucked narrow roads.   Staying close to the Rhein, crossed the convoluted borders several times between CH & D.   
Crossed the Rhein at Eglisau  - -  here's a train crossing as seen from the ancient road bridge.

then made my way W along the S bank of the Rhine.  
How's this for digging the garden ?

Ended up at Laufenburg, a town on both banks of the Rhein and both sides of the border.
Here's the Swiss S side

and here's the German N side

Finally, for two groups of people who have recently tuned into the blog:
- A big G'Day to you Aussies
- and a big привет to you Russians
How about posting a comment ?

day6 21/04 Konstanz D 57k267 Schaffhausen CH

Dry day, no wind, cold, excellent for cycling.

Cycled W along the S shore of the Untersee and then the Rhein proper, alternating between cycle paths and traffic roads.
Passed through many old small towns unravaged by war  - -  such as Diessenhofen below.

Had my first fall (minor) of the trip.
At 12 clocked my first Swiss cuckoo.
Found a hotel in Schaffhausen, then unbagged the bike, to go for the day's objective.
An excursion to Rheinfall.

Yes, those are people on the rock, and yes, they get there by boat.

day5 20/04 Rorschach CH 36k210 Konstanz D

Short day and no pics because of the weather.
The prior evening's rain had turned to snow overnight, and then to light sleet when I set off.
Just as I was leaving, the hotel concierge dashed out and gave me two bars of Swiss chocolate "für die Energie !"
So, I cycled along the S shore of the Bodensee.   After about half an hour I remembered to apply lip salve,
but found it had frozen in the squeeze tube.   I arrived in Konstanz in freezing rain, found a hotel, and the receptionist's second question was "Would you like a hot cup of tea ?"

day4 19/04 Vaduz 59k175 Rorschach

Low cloud, drizzle, headwinds, rain, no pics.

But the good bits are:
More than half the ride was along the E embankment of the Rhein    NO TRAFFIC     through most of Lichtenstein (19k) then into Austria.   Eventually the tarred top gave out, bacame gravelly, and to protect my tyres I switched to the Swiss side and to back roads not on the Rhein.   Made it to the shore of Bodensee then to the blot physological test town.

day3 18/04 Walenstadt 32k116 Vaduz Lichtenstein

Decided on a short ride to give myself time for laundry and admin.

Cycled up out of the valley of Walensee

looking back down, (post to be edited out)

Then my first sight of the Rhein and into Lichtenstein.

Just before Verduz an ancient covered bridge (over the Rhein)

In Verduz, a contemplation place with a Henry Moore.

day2 17/04 Lachen 46k83 Walenstadt

Cyled to the E end of Obersee, then along the towpath of the Linthkanal.

View from the Linthkanal of Speer through the mistletoe.

Rode along the S bank of the Walensee.   To avoid the heavy traffic on the main highway, I used a designated narrow cycle road which alternated between hugging the cliff face and tunneling though it.

Two views of Churfirsten from the S bank of the Walensee (note the large yacht)

After emerging from one of the many tunnels, I found the road totally blocked by a maintenance truck hoisting a team of men working on making safe the rock face above.   I removed the bike panniers and walked the bike along the parapet outside the railings until past the blockage, then repeated the exercise carrying the panniers.   I avoided being distracted by the drop to the highway and the lake.   Decided that was enough excitement for one day when I got to Walenstadt, and rewarded myself with a beer.

day1 16/04 Zurich 37k Lachen

Reassembled the bike the night before.
Thanks to the Hotel du Theatre for storing it, and offering to forward my bike bag home.

First day on the bike since September in Ireland (see averageblokearrothar.blogspot.com)
Started without a functioning front brake, quickly fixed by a local bike repairer (I should have spotted the cause and solved it).
Took it easy along the S shore of Zurichsee and then Obersee.

Ferry docking in front of snowy peaks.
Ended up at a lakeside village and relaxed.